This is a sponsored post by Rockler.
How To Make and Install an Interior Barn Door
The barn door has been on the “to do” list for several months and we finally got around to it after months of travel, college baseball games and work. Inspiration comes at me from all around and sometimes I worry about the time gap between inspiration and completion. You know, when a new bright and shiny inspired idea may have replaced that long ago inspiration that is still “in progress”. The struggle is real but in this case, the barn door inspiration for our laundry room makeover was not replaced.
The laundry room was the perfect place for a sliding barn door. It is a small space to begin with and the door opening up into the laundry room certainly doesn’t help. We had to make sure the door and the washing machine door were positioned just right when doing laundry.
Since my amazing husband was the CEO for design and installation for this diy project (I was the painter!) I am going to let him take over in describing the process.
Hi everyone, Dean here and that is one ugly cluttered area! Argh! What my beautiful wife has not mentioned is that the laundry room is going through a total redo! You will have to wait for the post, but trust me, it looks nothing like that anymore! Whew! OK, on to the barn door! Barn doors and sliding doors are some of the latest trends for interior spaces and I think if DIYers knew how easy they are to build and install, there would be more of them. One of the great things about barn doors and sliding doors is that there is a style for everyone! I preferred one with a classic barn door feel with a modern look. More Craftsman than Shaker, but still a little more minimalist than Craftsman. The hardware is always one of the keys for me and I always go shiny over black. Bronze is a possibility, but stainless was the choice for this project.
Door construction was the easiest part of this project and having a design was key! I started with quality pine 1″x 6″ boards and cut them to length after measuring to make sure that the door dimensions would cover the existing opening correctly and the height of the door would work with all of the hardware. After cutting to length, the boards were simply laid side to side and then framed around the perimeter on the back and front. On the front, I used another piece of 1″x 6″ piece to split the door in half vertically. Some would use a Z from corner to corner, but I opted for the horizontal piece to fit more with the Craftsman style. The finished door thickness is 2 3/8″ thick and I had to do some additional things with the hardware mounting to allow for the width, but more on that later.
We left the screw holes unfilled since it seemed to give a more rustic feel, but you could fill the holes and sand the door to make everything perfect, if that is the look that you are going for! After a couple coats of paint, we had a door!
Now for the sliding part of the sliding barn door. There are numerous sliding door hardware kits available on the market and online. You can see some of the options here and I would suggest finding one that matches your style. This particular hardware kit was a little more complicated and I would recommend something easier for the novice DIYer. This hardware required going through the entire door to attach the rollers and proper alignment was very important. For the novice, I would recommend looking for roller hardware that would attach to the front or the face of the door for a simpler installation. Using a forstner bit, I drilled two holes partially through the back of the door to inset the larger end of the bolt. Then using a smaller forstner bit all the way through the front of the door so that the bold could attach to the roller assembly.
Once the roller assemblies were attached to the door, I moved inside to install the rail assembly. Now, with the rail assembly, you can do a couple of different things. The rail assembly has four fixed attachments that can go directly in to the wall or you can mount the rail assembly to a piece of lumber and then attach the lumber to the wall to ensure that it is screwed into the studs. This does add another trim piece, but I didn’t mind the look of the additional trim piece. In fact, I had to add another trim piece to accommodate for the door thickness. The rail needed to be cut to the proper length and the easiest way to do this was to temporarily mount it to a scrap piece of lumber and use a hacksaw to trim both ends. By trimming both ends, there was an equal length of rail from each of the end attachment brackets!
So here is what the final installation looks like with the roller and rail assemblies! Don’t forget to add the door stops onto the rail before final attachment to the trim piece!
Before final installation of the door, I used 1″x4″ and 1″x6″ quality pine trim to frame out the opening where the old door casing was ripped out. So, here is the semi final installation. There are a couple of minor adjustments that need to be made to make sure that the door hangs flush to the wall (notice the gap at the top compared to the bottom), but you can read and see the finished installation when we show you the laundry room redo! Hopefully, this has inspired you to get out there and do something! Most importantly, have fun!